LACE FANS

Even in the ancient period the Greek and Roman women loved their fan. Rich ladies even had slaves who had to move their fan to have some cool air. In the Middle Ages, the fan disappeared as a fashion accessory. Only in the Church the use of the fan was maintained. It is uncertain when the use of the fan restarted. But in the inventory from 1380 of Charles V there is a description of a flag. This item was used to drive away the flies from the King at the dinner-table. The shape of the fan as it is still used today, originates from the 16th century. The origin is Oriental and came into Europe via Spain. Queen Elizabeth of England, one of the greatest fashion victims of the 16th century, loved to receive fans as a present.

In the fashion plates of the 17th century the fan is depicted more often, certainly in the French plates. In 1640, the Galerie du Palais opened its doors. This was the first boutique where people could buy accessories, like collars, cuffs, handkerchiefs, fans and so on. The boutique meant a change in the fashionworld. In the second half of the 17th century, fans were an indispensable item of the formal dress. The fan turned into a statussymbol, just as the handkerchief.

But the fan fashion really exploded in the 18th century. Fans became a high art form. The women were armed with the fan. As for the men, they carried the sword. During the 18th century, fans were the perfect present for important weddings. At the French court, the ladies were not allowed to open their fans in the presence of Marie Antoinette. As she was extremely vain, she was afraid others would upstage her with a more beautiful fan.

A lace fanleaf of the 18th century is made from lace strips. They are put in the shape of the fan and fixed to the sticks with vellum. Only a few fans survived the 17th and 18th century.

In the early 19th century, the fan as acccessory didn't lose its importance. Napoleon gave his wife, Marie Louise, one fan with diamonds and one fan with emeralds as wedding present. Early 19th century, fans were fashionable, both folding and rigid. They had a rather small size. They matched the style of the simple dress.

From the 1830s there was a revival in the lace fashion. Many accessories were introduced, such as parasols, fans, mittens, lace heads, handkerchiefs, shawls and ties. With the introduction of the crinoline, the dress became wider and the fan bigger. Lace fans became even much bigger towards the end of the century.

Fans had their greatest success at the end of the 19th century. They became smaller again in the early 20th century. Fans were very useful to make secret signs, for example a fan in the right hand in front of the face meant "Follow me" The lace fans of the 19th century could be made in mother of pearl, ivory or horn, tortoiseshell or wood. They often had inlay of gold and/or silver. Many different lace types served for fan making: Brussels and Bruges Dchesse, Valenciennes, Rosaline, Chantilly, Honiton, Point de Rose, Point de Gaze, Point de Venise, Youghal, Carrickmacross, Limerick,...